Some designer techniques are implemented purely for the enjoyment of the person wearing the garment. In elevating a garment to couture status, there often are many unsung, unseen heroes. The satin pocket bag is one of these elements; a luxurious detail, not meant to be seen by the casual observer but sure to enhance the mood of the wearer.
How nice will it be when the sumptuous feel of satin greets your fingers when you slip your hand into your pocket? This technique is explained for a front waist pocket on trousers, but you could adapt it for any pocket that requires a separate bag.
Prepare the pieces
1. Draft the pattern
Determine the size and shape of the pocket opening. You should be able to slide your hand into the pocket with ease. A 15cm (6″) opening is standard for a waist pocket. You should not need to adapt the commercial pattern if you are using one, other than to use satin for the pocket bags.
2. Cut the pieces
Cut the trouser front and side front from your fashion fabric. Cut the front facing/bag and the trouser side-front bag from the satin.
- It seems that most ready-to-wear is outfitted with short pocket bags, which are not safe to hold valuables. You may make your bags as deep as you like.
- Satins come in different weights. If you want a more durable bag use a heavier satin.
- The point for adding a pocket during the trouser construction may vary depending on your pattern or your preference. Incorporate this method at the appropriate time for the garment you are making.
Stabilize the opening
3. Tape the opening with silk organza
Cut a straight-grain strip of silk organza about 3cm (11⁄4“) wide and as long as the pocket opening. Press it in half lengthways. Lay the trouser front wrong side up; center the organza strip directly over the seamline on the pocket opening. Stitch in place, clipping the organza as needed around
4. Staystitch the pieces
Staystitch the pocket opening edge of the trouser front facing and side-front bag. Also, staystitch the waist seamline of the trouser front and trouser side front
Sew the facing/bag to the trouser front
5. Attach the pieces
Place the trouser front and facing/bag right sides together, with the raw edges of the pocket opening aligned. Sew them together. Trim and clip the seam allowances. Press the seam open
6. Turn and stitch the edge
Turn the facing/bag to the inside of the trouser front along the seam. Press the seamed edge. From right side, topstitch through all thicknesses close to the edge.
Sew the side-front bag to the side front
7. Attach the pieces
On the inside curved edge of the side-front bag, clip the seam allowance up to the staystitching. Then, with right sides together and raw edges aligned, pin and sew the inside curve of the bag to the bottom (outside curve) of the side front.
8. Unfold and stitch the edge
Unfold the pieces so that they lie flat and the bag extends from the side front. Press the seam allowance towards the bag. Overlock-finish the raw edges of the seam allowance together if you wish. From right side, topstitch through all thicknesses close to the seam
Complete the pocket
9. Align the side front and front
Lay the side front right side up. Position the trouser front right side up on top of it, aligning the waist and side edges. Pin together along the pocket opening
10. Sew the bag pieces together
Turn the work over. Smooth the bag layers to be sure they are flat; pin together along the outside edges (leave free from the trouser front). Sew the pocket bag layers together along their outside edge from the waist, along the bottom, and up the side to wherever they intersect with the side seam on the trouser side-front. Overlock-finish the edge of the seam allowance if you wish.
Have you tried this technique yet? Let us know how it worked out for you in the comments below!