When your garments are too tight, you can simply add a gusset for extra space. This simple gusset sewing guide will help you learn how to add easy gussets into your too snug garment!
Simple Gusset Sewing Steps To Expand Too Snug Clothes
Gussets are the little triangular pattern piece added to a garment. The main purpose of a gusset is to expand some parts of your pants, dress, shirts, and other clothing items– giving the wearer more room to move. This sewing technique has helped me save my vintage blouse and jacket with damaged underarm. Follow the tutorial and learn how to sew a gusset.
Tips:
- The fabric used for gusset should be exactly the same with the clothing.
- Pay attention to how much fabric you need for your gusset.
- Gusset should be added subtly on the clothing. Make sure it doesn’t bulge out.
Things you will need for gusset sewing:
- A piece of fabric
- Sewing needle and thread
- Tape measure
- Pair of Scissors
- Sewing machine
Step 1. Remove the Stitching
Remove the stitching on the area where you want to add the gusset. Turn the sleeve to the wrong side and backstitch the ends of the ripped seam so the sleeve doesn’t come undone.
Step 2. Clip the Seam
Clip right up to the seam where you stopped the backstitch (make sure to avoid cutting out the thread). By doing that, you release the seam allowance so you can start working on that area to add your gusset.
Step 3. Measure the Upper Width and Length
Pull the garment apart and measure the space you need for the gusset. Then, measure the length from the top of the garment down to where you clipped or stop.
Tips:
- Notice the shape of the fabric because that will be the shape of your gusset.
- Always add half an inch wider and longer for the seam allowance.
Step 4. Draw and Cut the Gusset on the Fabric
Take the fabric for your gusset and draw the shape using your measurements. It is easier to draw a center line of the gusset, fold it in half, and mark the fabric according to the measurements. Don’t forget your 5/8″ seam allowance, before cutting the fabric. Also, draw a line from the cutting marks for easy cutting.
Step 5. Pin the Gusset in Place
Turn the garment piece over and pin the gusset in place on both sides facing right sides together.
Tip: Pin the triangular fabric into the area you want to add a gusset to. The triangular fabric with longer sides should be pinned to the sides of the clothing, while the narrow side would be attached at the top or bottom area.
Step 6. Sew the Gusset
When you start sewing, put the needle down at the tip where you reinforce the bottom of the seam. Sew the gusset beginning from the bottom right straight up the end. Do the same on all sides of the gusset.
Tip: Make sure the edges line up well to make it unnoticeable and look more polished. When the edges don’t line up, you need to remove the stitches and do it again.
Gusset helps you save your existing garments with torn or damage underarm. It also adds extra space for your tight clothing.
There are so many ways to insert gussets to your projects. For more visual instruction about gusset sewing, check out this video by Niler Taylor:
Sewing a gusset can be intimidating. But when you read and follow the instructions carefully, adding gussets to your projects will be a breeze. Aside from the sleeve, there are also so many uses of a gusset. You can add them to other sewing projects like pants or bags.
Have you tried adding a gusset to your sewing project? Let us know how it went by leaving a comment below. Do you want to learn more tips about sewing? Check these tips on how to sew a french seam correctly!
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